Published: 25.10.2022
Updated: 25.10.2022
7 min read

Are pizza ovens worth your dough? We tested the Ooni Koda 12. Here’s our verdict

The Koda 12 is the smallest of all the Ooni pizza ovens... so is it worth the $659 price tag?
The Koda 12 is the smallest of all the Ooni pizza ovens... so is it worth the $659 price tag?

Are pizza ovens worth your dough? We tested the Ooni Koda 12. Here’s our verdict

The Koda 12 is the smallest of all the Ooni pizza ovens... so is it worth the $659 price tag?

There’s nothing quite like a freshly baked pizza straight from the oven.

With the arrival of warmer weather, it’s the perfect time to elevate your homemade pizza game.

So if you’re looking to replicate authentic wood-fired pizza at home, the Ooni Koda 12 may be just what you’re looking for.

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Cooking artisan-style pizzas at temperatures of up to 500°C, the mini portable, gas-fuelled oven rapidly fires out restaurant-quality pizzas with puffy crusts, crispy base and perfectly cooked toppings in just 60 seconds.

So is the $659 Ooni Koda 12 worth your dough? After putting the Ooni Koda 12 to the test for one month, here’s our verdict.

We tested the $659 Ooni Koda 12.
We tested the $659 Ooni Koda 12. Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

What is an Ooni Koda 12?

Compact yet super powerful, the Koda 12 is an outdoor oven weighing just 9.25kg - but it’s large enough to cook a 12-inch pizza in as little as one minute.

As the smallest of all the Ooni pizza ovens, the gas-powered model can replicate a true wood-fired flame, reaching scorching temperatures of up to 500°C within 15 minutes.

Ready to use right out of the box, the sleek design fits perfectly in any outdoor space - so you can get a taste of Italy from your own backyard or a tiny apartment balcony without the need for a massive brick oven.

What sets Ooni Koda 12 apart from every other model on the market is its convenience, ease, size, versatility and easy installation.

Where can I buy it?

Ooni has officially launched its popular range of pizza ovens - including the $659 Koda 12 - in Australia.

Australians can now purchase a slice of Ooni’s range of multi-fuelled portable, outdoor ovens, accessories and tools via au.ooni.com.

The Koda 12 is an outdoor oven weighing just 9.25kg - but it’s large enough to cook a 12-inch pizza in just 60 seconds.
The Koda 12 is an outdoor oven weighing just 9.25kg - but it’s large enough to cook a 12-inch pizza in just 60 seconds. Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

“We’re incredibly excited to finally launch in Australia,” Jeff Morrison, general manager of Ooni Australia, said.

“We know that Aussies have a famous love for food and the outdoors, and we’re coming to market at a fantastic time ahead of the summer season. We can’t wait to help even more Aussies make pizza with our ovens.”

With a huge following across the US, UK, Europe and now Australia, the world’s number one pizza oven brand was created in 2012 by husband and wife duo Kristian Tapaninaho and Darina Garland.

“Ooni was founded on the simple idea that everyone deserves great pizza,” Tapaninaho said.

“From our backyard beginnings, we’ve gone on to sell our pizza ovens all over the world and we’re proud to add Australia to the list.”

What’s included in the box?

For $659, shoppers get the pizza oven, baking stone and hose. If you’re in need of accessories or tools (sold separately) to create pizzas at home, Ooni has got you covered.
For $659, shoppers get the pizza oven, baking stone and hose. If you’re in need of accessories or tools (sold separately) to create pizzas at home, Ooni has got you covered. Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

For $659, you’ll get:

  • Ooni Koda 12 pizza oven body with folding legs
  • Cordierite stone baking board
  • Gas regulator and hose to connect to your propane tank

If you’re in need of accessories or tools (sold separately) to create pizzas at home, Ooni has got you covered.

  • Ooni pizza peel: $76
  • Ooni pizza cutter wheel: $40
  • Ooni infrared thermometer: $76
  • Carry cover: $79

Who is it good for?

Whether you’re a professional or a beginner, the Ooni Koda 12 is the perfect gadget for anyone.

Given its small capacity, it’s ideally suited for small families, couples or those who don’t have the space for a conventional wood-fired oven.

It’s a great gadget for entertaining friends and family at the next dinner party at home. Offering a hands-on experience, guests can make a personalised pizza - as they queue up to have a freshly flame-cooked pizza in as little as one minute.

As it’s super compact, the Koda can easily be transported to anywhere you go, whether it’s a camping trip or your friend’s place.

How does it work?

With an easy set up, the Koda requires no assembly. All you have to do is flip open the foldable legs, insert the pizza stone and connect to a gas bottle (normally used with barbecues) - that’s it.

Instructions are super easy to follow. Firing up the oven is as simple as pushing in and slowly turning the dial counter-clockwise until you hear a click and the burner ignites.

Unlike the standard oven in your kitchen, the Koda takes just 15 minutes to heat up and runs quietly when lit.

Making pizzas from scratch at home.
Making pizzas from scratch at home. Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

While the oven is heating up, assemble your pizza. I made my own dough from scratch but for those who don’t want the faff of making the dough, you can get pre-made versions from the fridge aisle at supermarkets.

For the base, I used my own sauce, which consists of tinned tomatoes, garlic, a pinch of sugar to cut through the acidity, salt and fresh basil. For toppings, I prefer a simple margherita and a classic supreme.

Once the pizza is assembled, make sure there’s enough flour on the peel to transport from the counter to the oven.

Before launching the pizza in, check the temperature. It’s definitely worth getting the infrared thermometer as that takes the guess work out of it - and it really makes life easier.

With the flames on high, slide the pizza in and watch the outer crust puff up as the cheese on top nicely melts before your eyes.

The pizza is cooked pretty evenly in one minute, but you have to turn it every 15-20 seconds to ensure the crusts are cooked to perfection without burning. The best way to do this is to quickly pull the whole pizza out with the peel, rotate it, then launch it back into the oven. Repeat until all the edges are crispy and toppings are golden.

Getting the hang of turning takes a couple of seconds, but it’s so easy to make the pizzas once you do know what you’re doing.

It’s so easy to make the pizzas once you know what you’re doing
It’s so easy to make the pizzas once you know what you’re doing Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

The edge nearest to the flame can burn quite quickly. One of the best ways I have found to avoid burning the outer crust is to make a smaller pizza which allows me to keep the back edge far from the flame.

Don’t be afraid to turn the temperature down. But if you do reduce the heat, it’s best to keep the pizza in longer than the recommended 60 seconds to ensure the dough isn’t raw inside. However, you will still need to pull the pizza out to rotate.

And the end result? A soft pizza dough with a crispy base, chewy around the edges with slight char - complete with bubbling, cheesy toppings that’s cooked quicker than the time it takes to boil a kettle.

Going beyond pizzas, the versatile oven can cook steaks, fish, vegetables, bread and even calzones.

Cleaning is a breeze too as you simply need to remove the stone after it has cooled down, brush off any burnt toppings and you’re good to go for your next pizza night.

When it’s time to store away or travel, the legs simply fold down.

Is it worth $659?

YES! If you’ve had your eye on a pizza oven but have been reluctant to spend thousands of dollars or don’t have a large cooking space outdoor, it’s definitely worth investing in the Ooni Koda 12.

I’ve been cooking pizzas at home for years - making the dough from scratch topped with gourmet, high-quality ingredients - but it never tastes as good as the restaurant when it’s cooked in our standard home oven.

But after trialling the Ooni for four weeks, I can confidently say it lives up to the hype. It’s a brilliant product that delivers on all fronts.

The end result? A soft pizza dough with a crispy base, chewy around the edges with slight char - complete with bubbling, cheesy toppings that’s cooked quicker than the time it takes to boil a kettle.
The end result? A soft pizza dough with a crispy base, chewy around the edges with slight char - complete with bubbling, cheesy toppings that’s cooked quicker than the time it takes to boil a kettle. Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

The oven has definitely taken our pizzas to the next level without needing to change any of our ingredients. Despite its size, the Ooni is capable of generating extremely high heat - leaving dough to rise rapidly, crusts to puff and toppings to caramelise in just seconds - something that’s been missing from my home oven all these years.

Our ingredients have been elevated further through the use of the Ooni. Our homemade pizzas are now a part of our regular meals and I don’t think I can ever go back to a regular oven again. The base is the crispiest I have ever had and the slight char provides a depth of flavour that we haven’t been able to achieve before.

Without a doubt, the oven turns any amateur pizza into a gourmet creation.

I made multiple pizzas back-to-back, ranging from a classic margherita and pepperoni to a supreme and BBQ chicken. From what I’ve learnt, less is more. A good pizza only needs a few toppings. Overloading the base with ingredients makes the pizza soggy, harder to turn and rotate and takes longer to cook.

Maintenance is minimal and the result is amazing. We can store it away when not using - giving us back our precious balcony space.

The verdict

Like everything else, it’s a little trial and error.

Using an Ooni pizza oven has definitely upped our pizza game, while greatly cutting the time required to bake in the kitchen. I am consistently turning out the best pizzas I have ever made at home.

It’s just as good as you’ll get to restaurant quality wood-fired pizza at home - the pizzas get better and better every time you make them.

You’ll need a little practice before you are making pizzas to perfection.
You’ll need a little practice before you are making pizzas to perfection. Credit: Cindy Tran/7NEWS

Just note that this has the ability to make professional-grade pizza - but it will also come with a learning curve as placing the pizza too close to the flame will result in a char that is less than subtle.

You may need to play around with the flame settings before you find the right temperature for your homemade pizzas.

Your Ooni will be the talking point at parties for years to come. You just need a little practice before you are making pizzas to perfection.

Ooni provided 7NEWS with an Ooni Koda 12 for testing purposes. This did not affect our views on the gadget, and our review remains independent of the manufacturer.